Toyota Aygo Club Knowledgebase

Installing double controls for the Passenger Electric window

Since the Aygo and its sistercars the C1 and 107 were built as budget-
cars, the controls for the Power Windows are simple; just a pod with
a switch instead of the standard handle. More expensive cars usually
have a button on the drivers door to control all other windows too,
without the need to reach across the car or contort yourself.

With two relays, a switch, a couple of yards of wire and part
of an afternoon of work you can replicate this functionality.

The standard control on the door itself stays functional, so
both passenger and driver have full control. Should both give
opposite commands at the same time the window will just stop.

The basic schematic

Please note that lefthand and righthand apply to my LHD-car. Read Drivers side for lefthand and Passenger side for righthand

The colors shown here correspond with the actual colors in the car as much as possible.
Since I have a LHD car I'm not sure if the colors are the same on a RHD-version.

For the colors of the extra wiring I've used the actual colors
I used myself, but you're free to use any color you like.

What's needed?

• Two relays SPDT, i.e. Hella "4RD 003 520-08"
  These are standard automotive relays,
  but with 5 spades instead of the usual 4
• A couple of sockets for the relays for ease of installation.
  If you can't get these or don't want to you can just use spade connectors
• A momentary switch SPDT with three positions.
  You can also use two momentary pushbuttons if preferred.
• About 30' of wire. You need 1,5mm^2 wire (AWG 15) for the wires that carry the
  motor load, for the wires across the car you can suffise with 0,5mm^2 (AWG 20)

The tools needed depend on your choice of making connections, I allways
solder connections in a car, but you can also use crimp-connectors.

So depending on your choice you need a soldering iron + soldering wire,
heat shrink tubing + a heat source to shrink the tube, wire cutters,
a wire stripper, crimp connectors + the pliers to crimp them,
screwdrivers, electrical tape and a knife.

Relays will set you back about £3 each, the sockets are about £2 each,
a switch can be had for as little as £1 and If you choose to use one
color wiring for everything you'll need about 30' or 1,5mm^2 (AWG15)
which will probably be about £8 for a reel of 30'.

The relays shoud look something like this:



I used sockets for the relays as this simplifies wiring and it also
allows you to exchange the relays quite easy should this be neccesary.

The ones I used look like this:



These can be threaded together, creating a nice row of relays.
If you can't find these sockets you can also use plugs instead of
single spade connectors. These will still keep the wiring in the
right order, but canot be used to mount the relays themselfves...



The switch I used is a rocker switch, but you can also use a tumbler if you prefer,
as long as it's SPDT with a center position to which it returns after use.



What do I need to do?

A quick recap:

• Using the original switch, open the window half way
• Turn off the ignition and put the key in your pocket,
  so no one can accidentally turn it on again.
• Snip the wires going from the switch to the motor,
  these will likely be red and green.
• Connect each of the wires from the motor
  to the nr.30-contact on each of the relays
• Connect the wires from the switch to the nr.87A-contact,
  make sure you keep the wires paired, so the red wire for the
  motor is on the same relay as the red wire from the switch.
• Now check if the factory switch still operates the window,
  then turn off the ignition again and re-pocket the key.
• Connect the nr.85-contact of both relays together and connect them to ground.
  You can splice into the black wire at the switch for the easiest connection.
• Applying +12V on the nr.86 conatcts of either of the
  relays will render the factory switch inoperable.
• Connect the nr.87-contact of both relays together and connect them to +12V.
  You can splice into the white wire at the switch for the easiest connection.
• Applying +12V to either nr.86-contact now ill cause the window to run up or down.
  If you accidentally swapped the 87 and 30 contacts the fuse will blow, so be carefull!
  The fuse for the PowerWindows is located behind the dash and it is a very specific
  size and shape, so you probably will not have one lying around...
• Now runs wires from both nr.86-contacts to where you want your Auxilary switch to be.
• Each wire is connected to one of the outer contacts of your switch.
• Connect the center contact to +12V after ignition, the yellow
  wire if you choose to put the switch in the drivers door.
• Basically you're done now! Straighten up everything, button up the door(s) and enjoy!

Now what does all of this look like?


The switch in the passenger door.

Normally there would be just 4 wires, no more.
I snipped the motorwires and spliced the power-feed.
You can see them running down into the extra loom, together
with the white and brown wires from the auxilary switch.


Both SPDT relays on the inside of my door card.
Placed in sockets and srewed into the plastic.
If yours is a 3-drs you'll need to relaocat the relays, as the
door card then had a foam block instead of the plastic reinforcements.

At rest the factory switch puts both sides of the motor to ground.
The motor-wires are connected to the middle-contact of the relays, the rest-
position is connected to the switch. Both active contacts are connected to +12V.

Both relay-coils are hooked up to ground on one side and have wires
running through the car to the new switch on the other contact.


At the other side of the car they connect to this switch.

The center contact of this switch is hooked up to +12V too,
so pressing the switch activates one relay in the passenger door,
thus switching one of the motor wires from ground to +12V making it move!


Here's where I put my auxilary switch

I chose to put it there since it's within reach and doesn't stand out.
This also enabled me to use the +12V switched from the door switch, eliminating
the need for extra fuses as everything extra still runs from the same circuit.
Should you want to put the extra switch somewhere else you'll need to find a
+12V feed after ignition there...

DONE!!!

Should you not understand some of the bits written above you
should ask yourself if it would be smart to try this yourself...

Questions or remarks are welcome and as allways the usual disclaimers apply...


PS. I also have a second modification to the windows, involving two one-touch modules AND
a dual control, but I still need to write that up in Dutch, so a trnslation might take some while...

Non Submitted

Submitted by: Jan van de Wouw

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